--Attach fine copper or gold wire along shank, and leave hanging.

--Attach 2 or 3 strands of peacock herl along shank wrap thread forward and back to tail. Wind herl by hand all the way to bead or a little behind the eye. Counter-wrap the wire and fasten down.

--Attach two sections of white goose biot for wing, making an "X" figure with the points facing backward to about the hook point. There is a natural bend to a biot, and I fasten them with the concave side up. Snip the ends sticking over the bead or eye.

--Attach a soft hackle feather and make one wind, not wanting to overdress.

--Whip finish. Don't bother with cement. As with any fly, you will either lose it or it will get ruined by use before it falls apart.

This fly is normally tied with black rabbit strips. Different color combinations can be used to match conditions. They can be doctored up with flash or rubber legs.

Start with two links from a chain to form the eyes, tying them on the back of the hook roughly even with the hook point. Tie a strip of marabou behind the eyes about as long as the hook. Extend the marabou up and over the eyes, taking a few extra turns of thread behind the eyes. Add about a dozen turns of lead wire for weight. Tie more marabou from the eyes to the front of the hook by dubbing the marabou on the thread and making it thicker in front of the lead wraps. Tie in a hackle feather on the leaded section, leaving a length of feather a little longer than the length of the hook. After tying in the hackle feather behind the lead, wrap the feather flat on top of the hook down to the eye, extending it beyond the eye. Wrap off the fly at the eye and trim the excess feather off flat. This forms the tail of the fly. I have tied this pattern in both black and brown colors and both work well. You can use grizzly hackle with either color.

LeRoy developed this pattern to be a good, all-around caddis pattern. He originally called it the "All-purpose caddis fly," but in the Pacific Northwest, it quickly became known as "Hyatt's Caddis." It floats well, and can be very effective when you want to use a "skittering" presentation.

By varying the hook size and body color, it can be used not only for a wide range of caddis, but also for stoneflies, and in really large sizes, even as a steelhead pattern. When fishing in the Bitterroot Mountains in Northern Idaho, I have found the yellow-bodied version to be a very effective imitation of the "Little Yellow Sally" stonefly.

The wing is tied differently than on most caddis patterns. Instead of a single clump of elk or deer hair, it is tied on in layers. Start by tying a small amount of dubbing at the bend of the hook. This serves as a base for the first clump of hair. Even the tips of a small, relatively short clump of hair, and tie it on the top of the hook, with the tips extending to the bend. Be careful not to let the hair spin around the hook. Wrap another section of body material to cover the butt section of the hair tied down in the first step, and then add another clump of hair, tied so the tips are the same length as the first clump. Repeat these steps up the shank of the hook until you have reached the area where you will wrap the hackle.

On smaller hooks, you'll probably use only two clumps of hair for the wing. On larger hooks, you may end up using three or four clumps.

1. Attach the thread at the 75 percent point on the hook and tie in the copper wire on the near side of the hook. Tie the wire back the bend of the hook.
2. Attach four Pheasant tail fibers to the top of the hook with two turns of thread keeping the fibers flat and not separated. Take care not to make the turns too tight or you may cut one or more of the fibers.
3. Lift the Pheasant tail fibers with the material hand and advance the thread forward to the 75 percent point where the thread was tied on and building a slight thread body.
4. Keeping the Pheasant tail fibers separated, wind them forward to the 75 percent point and tie them off on the top of the hook with two or three turns of thread.
5. Take the copper wire and bring it under the tail fibers. As the wire is drawn under the tail fibers apply sufficient pressure to raise the fibers slightly and separate them. Then bring the wire straight down and then up to the near side. Make four to six turns of wire to the 75 percent point and tie off on the bottom of the hook. Make turns of wire to break it off.
6. Take the Pheasant tail fibers with the material hand and keeping them flat and together fold them back. Secure them at the 60 percent point. Bring the thread forward to one eye length shaping a base for the thorax.
7. Return the thread to the 60 percent point. Take four to six fine Peacock herls from near the center of the eye of the feather. Keeping them flat and separate to avoid bulk, tie on top of the hook at the 60 percent point and wind them forward to form the thorax. Tie them down at the base of the thorax with two turns of thread leaving space for the head of the fly.
8. Take the four Pheasant tail fibers and keeping them flat and separate fold them forward and tie them off with two turns of thread forming the wing case.
9. On the far side of the hook, take one Pheasant tail fiber and with two turns of thread tie it to the side of the thorax. On the near side of the hook take one fiber and tie it to the side of the hook with two turns of thread.
10. Shape a small neat head and break off the two remaining Pheasant tail fibers.
11. Trim the two Pheasant tail fibers representing the legs to a point very slightly longer than the thorax. If a rotating vise is used it may be helpful to reverse the vise.
12. Admire the fly.